Thursday, October 09, 2008

Wien

Wien, the capital of Austria and the former capital of the Austro-Hungarian & Habsburg Empires, is only a short train ride from the Velvet capital of Praha (well, 3 hours). It is a city decorated with glitz & gild as well as serving as a regional transport hub. We spent 3 days in Wien soaking in (& trying to scrap off so gild) culture & glitz.

Here are the points for Wien:

1 points goes to Freyung. Known as one of Wien’s shopping area, it only had a handful of high-end shops & boutiques. The daily market that my guide books directed me to also did not exist. At least it is very close to the main shopping streets of Graben and Kohlmarkt (see 5 points).

2 points go to Schönbrunn. Let me explain this low scoring for Schönbrunn. Tauted as a graceful palace with a beautiful garden, we actually didn’t visit Schönbrunn even though it is only a short u-bahn ride on U4. The reason for this was that one of us had already been to Wien before and didn’t think that Schönbrunn was worth a second visit. This low score only reflects the lack of interest by said friend & our non-visit.

3 points go to the Sigmund Freud Museum. A little further away from the main tourist attraction sites, this was the actual clinic of Sigmund Freud. We did not have time for a visit, but from the travel shows that I had seen this museum is quite well disguised amongst other residential buildings. The closest u-bahn stations (Schottentor or Rossaur Lände) are also 10-15 minutes walk away.

4 points go to Schwarzenbergerplatz. This is a reasonably attractive square with a water fountain that puts on a light show at night. Its closest u-bahn station, however, is Karlsplatz 10 minutes walk away, and the naschmarkt (see 6 points) that guide books directed me to did not exist. The Unteres Belvedere (see 10 points) is just a short walk down Rennweg then Prinz Eugen Straße.

5 points go to Graben & Kohlmarkt. Known for their antique shops and galleries (particularly Kohlmarkt), these 2 streets in the middle of the city are also now filled with a mix of high-end shops (like Louis Vuitton), souvenir shops and eateries. You can also find the Pestsäule (Memorial to the Plague) towards the southern end. At the end of Graben you can find the Stepheansdom cathedral (see 7 points).

6 points go to the Naschmarkt (food market). Most guide books would direct you to the naschmarkts of Wien. My searches listed 3 – Schottengaße 1, Mariahilfer Straße 85 and Schwarzenbergerpltaz. Unfortunately we couldn’t find the ones at Schottengaße or Shcwarzenbergerplatz. Half of the stalls at Mariahilfer Straße were also closed. There were quite a few seafood restaurants that looked to be rather popular, but we ended up picking a fusion place & had some very nice wraps. The organic beer was, however, like all other organic beer that I have had – not even a buzz after ½L.

7 points go to Stephansdom. Currently undergoing a facelift (the grime of its exterior is being blasted off), this Catholic cathedral is located in the middle of the city, right above its very own u-bahn station (Stephansplatz). Entry into the cathedral is free, where the interior is extremely dark. You are also stopped by steel gates at the end of the seating rows so that only worshippers are allowed further. To the side there is a shop selling everything from rosary beads to books about the cathedral.

8 points go to Hohermarkt. This is a short street hidden in the middle of the Jewish quarter. There is an interesting white marble & gold plated statue on the central divider but what is more interesting is the glöckenspiel that is just to its north. This glockenspiel is featured on both sides of the short footbridge that connects the 2 buildings. There is also a stone carving of a lion on the bottom of the bridge. Wien’s Jewish quarter, however, is not as beautiful as the one in Praha.

9 points go to the Secession. The Secession was a rebel art movement that broke away from the main Austrian art scene at the end of the 19th century. Major artists included Gustav Klimt, Koloman Moser & a whole bunch of others. A special building was also built for this breakaway art movement, and you can find it at Friedrichstraße 12 within walking distance from the Naschmarkt (see 6 points). The main hall houses the Beethovenfries (Beethoven Frieze) by Klimt. The gilded dome is also well worth a sighting. The Museum-quartier is also close by.

10 points go to the Belvedere. It takes a little effort to get to (we took the u-bahn then walked for 15-20 minutes before getting there), the Belvedere comprises of 4 museums and a spectacular garden. The Oberes Belvedere (Upper Belvedere) houses permanent exhibitions, normally including the world famous Der Kuss by Gustav Klimt, while the Unteres Belvedere (Lower Belvedere) houses special exhibitions. You can purchase separate tickets (€9.50) or a combined ticket (€12.50). The combined ticket or single ticket for the Unteres Belvedere also gives you access to the Orangerie to the side of the Unteres Belvedere. It was exhibiting some punk and contemporary art projects at the time of our visit.

And finally, 12 points go to Hofburg palace. The Hofburg is a large palatial complex smack bang in the middle of the city. Many of its former palatial buildings now serve as government departments, including the current Austrian Parliament. The main section of the Hofburg, however, houses some museums, the more famous are the Sisi museum, Kaiserappartements (Royal apartments) and the Silberkammer (Silver room). It is interesting how most of the stuff in the Silberkammer were gold!?! For a small entry fee (well, by European standards €9 per person is relatively ‘small’) you can end up spending hours, like we did, in just these 3 museums alone. The ticket price also includes an audio guide which you can carry along & punch in the corresponding numbers as you reach the locations. Outside these museum buildings, you can also find the open Heldonplatz (Heroes’ Plaza) where locals & tourists alike sit & enjoy the day/lunch.

Next, we head across the border and visit the closest capital city to Wien – Bratislava in Slovakia!

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